KL Wong of Teapals makes a bold claim about this 2003 Shuangjiang Mengku (Rongshi) Da Xue Shan Wild ($39.15 for 250g or $0.16/g). He states, “If not better, it’s as good as
2006 Mengku Rongshi Qiao Mu Wang.” This
is the line that hooked me on this tea because personally I feel that the 2006 Mengku Arbour King brick is one of the best productions that Shuangjiang Mengku
has ever produced. This is coming from
someone who has also tried a lot of Shuangjiang Mengku.
Ok, let’s go back a bit.
Since, returning for my onslaught of puerh buying, this has been my only
purchase that I have been tipped off by a kind email (thanks friend). He no doubt flagged this wild tea down for me
because it has a lot of qualities that I look for in a tea.
First, it’s from one of my favorite factories that is known
for cheap and good quality puerh.
Shuangjiang (Rongshi) Mengku is also well known for pressing wild tea
and have been doing it for a long time before any of the other factories. Secondly, I like wild tea though drink it infrequently. The Shuangjiang
Mengku Da Xue Shan wilds are some of the most famous factory production wild/
yesheng out there. This is a very early
version of these. Thirdly, I highly value very tight/ iron compression which these bricks are. Fourth, as stated above I’m a big fan of the
2006 Shuangjiang Mengku Qiou Mu Wang.
Seems, like this completely Malaysian stored brick has everything
I like… so I ended up ordering the last 4 bricks but the big question is…
Is it REALLY better than 2006 Shuangjiang Mengku Arbour King???
Dry super compressed leaves smell of the dry leaves is of
vibrant fruits in wood and slight dirt.
Slightly watery, fruity, distinct date and plum skin onset
with cooling light finish on the breath.
The mouthfeel is a bit vacuous in this first infusion with a touch of
barely noticeable dryness in the throat.
The second infusion starts off more earth peat mixed with
date and overly ripe cherry. It has a
watery and almost tart quality reminiscent of wild tea profile. There is a slight bready finish with moderate
cooling on the breath. The mouthfeel is
sticky especially the lips and this throat mildly opens to the obvious cool
menthol.
The third infusion starts with pops of dense and thick
syrupy fruity vibrancy, cherry and plum initially then is swept away by a
moderate cooling returning yeasty bread sweetness. There are mild layers of wood
underneath. This infusion excites me. The qi is starting to kick in the upper neck,
down the spine effect is felt as if the head is wobbling on a swivel.
The fourth has a woodier and cherry and rum like taste, a
bit like rum and raisin flavor and dried cherries. The woody taste is not as prolific as the
fruity. There is a wave of cooling and beadlike
sweetness and even dark chocolate covered dried cherry aftertaste. The profile is pretty long and reasonably complex. It tastes like a drier storage, I wouldn’t have
pegged it as typical Malaysian. There
are lots of crispness, woodiness, and fruitiness in here more typical of drier
storage. This is likely due to the iron
like compression on the brick.
The fifth infusion starts off with a yeasty bread like sweet
and sour dominating with sweet fruits layered under that and wood notes even
deeper. There is a mineral taste in this
one as well before cooling and converting into a long fruity and bread like
sweet taste on the breath. The mouthfeel
is slight tart and astringent enough to give the layers of wild flavors
traction. The qi is powerful in the
mind, spacy. Do I still even have a neck
attached to my head, I wonder? The tart
mouthfeel forces the saliva to retreat deeper into the throat.
The sixth infusion starts off strong, dense, thick fruit,
wood, cooling, The taste is real full
and strong here. The Qi is real strong in the head too. I almost feel like I can’t think
straight. I can feel qi pooling in my
eyes and spine. This is a powerful wild
tea.
The seventh infusion starts with a pungent fruity bready taste,
it’s almost bitter here and more woody with a more pronounced cooling throat
action. The sweeter and fruiter tastes
are less. The eighth infusion is
identical with a touch more bready sweetness.
The ninth infusion has more of a sour fruit onset and strong
pungent coolness to finish. There are
long bready sweetness and fruits in the breath here. The Qi is very powerful almost dizzying.
The tenth infusion is a nice balance of dry wood and
date/cherry it has a tartness underneath.
The pungent coolness reaches deep into the throat from the astringency
here. I can feel the qi beating in the
chest now. The Qi of this tea is very nice. I clear out some pieces that have clogged my
teapot filter a bit and things change…
The eleventh infusion has an almost floral sweet fruit approach,
slight tart, much less bitterness and astringency and a smoothness to it. It has a talc mineral nuance to it as
well. A subtle mineral soil taste, like
licking a rock. Still distinct coolness
and long sweet bready and fruit aftertaste.
The twelfth infusion has that same floral and berry taste
now. It is somewhat refreshing in these
infusions, cooling and replenishing feeling but warm in the body and face. The aftertaste is pungent cool and long fruity
breads. This tea feels very clean and
pure in the body. My mind melts under
the Qi’s presence.
Thirteenth infusion is of mahogany wood with layered fruits underneath. Deep rich dried cherry, cooling pungent. My energy explodes in my mind and I break
into a sweet.
The fourteenth is beautiful cherry florals with a Saskatoon berry
taste. It tastes like
Saskatoon berry pie with the pastry bready edges now. A sweet fruity mineral aftertaste is
enjoyable.
The fifteenth infusion is more berries and wood and
mineral. A pungent fruity long
aftertaste. The sixteenth is still at
flash and delivers. The sixteenth is
fruity and long cooling pungent it is simple now but the qi is still strong and
the sweet fruit note is predominant. The
seventeenth is sour, fruit, woody base really tastes like younger wild tea
here.
The leaves are still very tightly rolled at this point as
evidence in the picture. This is the
kind of tea that easily gets steeped for 2 days in my house. The overnight steepings are surprisingly woody,
a touch bitter, and a bit brackish.
Conclusion: I have had a chance to sit down for a few good
sessions with this one. I have found a
lot of variance in session to session with this wild. This is due mainly to the amount of dry leaves
used. You actually get the best result
when the session is leafed a bit on the lighter side. If you use too much leaf it can get bitter
and astringent and turn out more woody and less fruity.
The best sessions, like my first session in the above notes,
are close to the brilliance of the 2006 Shuangjiang Mengku Arbour King but
really the teas are so different it’s hard to compare. Other than the same factory and compression, the
material and harvest year gives off completely different taste, feel, and
energy. I really like this 2003 wild, a
wonderful tea for the modest price tag…
With that being said, I still don’t think
it compares to the brilliance of the 2006 Arbour King.
Peace
4 comments:
It's interesting tea isn't it!
I like to brew it quite light, then it's not too overwhelming.
Anonymous,
Yes it is! I think its one of those cheap enough to be everyday drinker without guilt but complex enough to continue aging into something more.
Hahaha... yes you pick up on that too.
Much Peace
Very nice review Matt. I would be interested to know your overall thoughts about Shuangjiang Mengku, which productions you think stand out and what kind of variations you have experienced with this producer...
Thanks
Marco
marco,
I have many many good overall thoughts on Shuangjiang Mengku. Enough to fill a post I'm working on. Hahaha...
When I started to buy puerh again a few years ago I noticed that Shuangjiang Mengku's best productions were terribly underpriced. So I bought up more than a few KG and Tongs of this stuff. There seemed to be a price adjustment over the last year or so but there probably is somewhere on Taobao or the internet somewhere where these productions are still selling insanely low.
As a result most of the stuff I purchased 2 years ago are selling for double, triple, even quadruple the price I paid just 2 years ago. I don't know that I would pay the current asking price now...
I sampled a lot of their mid 2000s stuff back when they were released because of a shop owner in Korea I would frequent.
The Da Due Shan, Mu Shu Cha, and Arbor King from that era is decent but quality changes from year to year. As a general rule, the earlier the production, the better the quality from this era of Shuangjiang Mengku. This is partly because these are blended and the price of maocha was increasing.
Peace
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