Thursday, February 21, 2008

What the Fuck is Ddok Cha?!?


Bet you've never heard of Ddok Cha! Even googling this mysterious tea leads to no relevant results. It seems odd as this tea has such a long history in Korea but is virtually unknown to even the common folk here.

This tea was first used here about 1400 years ago, about the time some people believe tea became popular in Korea. It was particularly fad among monks who frequented the mountains during the Goryeo (918-1392) rule of the peninsula when Buddhism was at its height in Korea. When the Joseon (1392-1897) ousted the Goryeo they began a campaign of repressing everything associated with Buddhism. They ruled by using the principles of Confucianism and claimed that Buddhism was just 'Ooga-Booga'. Because ddok cha was connected to the Buddhist way of life it was ostracized by the ruling class and literi who much preferred the simple green loose leaf variety. If it weren't for the dedicated, zenned-out, tea drinkin' Korean monks we probably would know nothing about this wonderful, nearly forgotten tea.

So, what exactly is Ddok cha already!!! Well 'Ddok' in Korean means pounded congealed rice cake and cha (clearly and most obviously) means tea. This tea isn't made from rice cakes, in fact, it's 100 % pure Camellia sinensis. The word 'Ddok' is used to describe this tea because it has a similar method of production to the famed rice cake. Rice cakes, just like the tea, are produced by placing rice (or tea) on a large stone and beating it repeatedly with a heavy, oversized wooden hammer that, in many ways, reminds me of the kind used to play Wack-A-Mole at the ol' town fair.

The tea leaves used for ddok cha are the small type of Camellia sinensis that are used in the teas of Northern China, Korea and Japan today. These leaves are small and thin and can grow to the full size of 10 cm or less. They are almost exclusively used to make green teas and typically aren't good for oxidizing due to these leaf characteristics. Nevertheless, ddok cha is produced in ways which use and accommodate these specific leaf characteristics to maximize the full-bodied flavour of this tea.

The production process is the exact same as green tea production in Korea and only differs from it in the last few steps of production. Unlike green tea, Ddok cha goes through a process of light oxidization that is initiated when the leaves are given the beats with the giant wood mallet. They are pounded together in a manner that is considerably less dense than the process used to make puerh. In doing so it allows the tea to oxidize in a much different way, where a larger surface area of the oxidizing tea is exposed to air. The tea is left in the shade to oxidize and chill out for only four days or so.

The result is a smaller loosely packed cake that is just a tad oxidized. This tea will give off a liquor that is a bright but hazy yellow colour. It's flavour will continue to mature as the leaves age and will reach full maturity 3 to 5 years after production. Did I mention that it just tastes damn good???

9 comments:

toki said...

This could be the Mother of Liu An! Congrat for the great find ; ) -T

Space Samurai said...

That was very interesting, thanks for sharing that.

Matt said...

Thanks for the kind words Alex. Toki- I think its more like Lui An's step mother, but either way, thanks for the great Korean ddok cha links... I had no idea you knew Korean... haha.

Peace.

toki said...

matt - Do you think you can find any of these Ddok Cha? I am dying to try some. Possible aged ones? - T

Matt said...

I have no aged cakes in my possession right now, just a 2007 wild cake that's going to see a posting on this blog within the next few days. I'll dig around town and see what I can find for you Toki.

Peace.

toki said...

matt-That will be lovely, very kind of you. Thanks in advance. -Tok

Karen said...

Thank you, Matt. I'm told that my own ddeok-cha (my Korean friend's transliteration) states: "good through six years," which would coincide with your comment about optimal aging. Mine consists of a necklace-like arrangement, i.e., very small disks strung on a circular cord and wrapped in bamboo. It smells wonderful. I just wish that the vendor, joytea.com, had an English Web page as well. It seems that Korean tea vendors haven't gotten hip yet to the fact that there are Westerners who are interested in Korean tea.

Cho Hak said...

Could this be the tea I drank at Baekryeonsa? That tea was more of a red tea but in cake form and had been aged several years. It was slightly "moldy" but delicious. I was told that it was similar to the tea Cho Ui drank. It sounds very similar. But there are so many variations.

Matt said...

Cho Hak,

Hmmmm...

Sounds like dok cha. This would have been close to the kind of tea that Cho Ui drank. It is a tea that is somewhat popular among some monks in the know and the local farmers of Hadong.

You are right 'ddok cha' simply means 'cake tea', there are many variations in Korea. But they are relatively difficult to find.

Peace