Jia Dao (779-843)
It has been quite a ride David and Yingxi … 10 years. Over these last 10 years, much has changed in
the puerh world and we have learned many things. As I shared previously on this blog, David
and I go way back to when it first started.
I had a feeling, and it is so fitting, that this 2018 Spring EoT 10 Year Anniversary Yiwu ($560.00 for 400g cake or $1.40/g) comprised of GuoYuLin or
protected state forest material would magically make it to my tea table. On the wrapper is commissioned calligraphy of
the above Tang Dynasty poem by Jiadao.
The first line in the poem above suggests that David and
Yingxi have spent 10 years learning.
There is humility in these lines, patience, meticulousness, carefulness,
responsibility. They, like us, are
students of tea- this great mystery of puerh.
They are also our teachers and have taken us on this beautiful 10 year
journey with them. It has taken us to
the most pristine puerh trees, to the tea markets of Malaysia, to the
Warehouses of Kunming, and beyond. This first line not only refers to them as
students but also as business people, and probably, about each other as a
couple.
The totality of David and Yingxi’s acquired experience, hard
work, patience, learning from past successes and failures and knowledge of what
makes puerh so wonderful is presented to us right now. In this very cake “Today, I hold it unsheathed
before you”!
That is a LOT of hype to live up to…
Dry leaves smell of fresh foresty, deep wood odours as well
as lingering but not overly sweet distant cherries and plumbs.
First infusion has a sweet onset followed by a deep forest
taste then sweet fruity then a sweet icing surgar pungent finish. Wood tastes appear under the sweet and a
slight almost rubbery feeling in the mouth and throat. It is immediately apparent that this puerh
has interesting depth to it. The
mouthfeel is mild and sticky in the tongue but nice and opening in the deeper
throat. The liquour is a golden brown
hue to it, unique among puerh this young.
The second infusion starts off with a burst of sweetness
that is part fruity and part icing sugar- there is a deeper sweet taste in here
as well- like edges of dried apricot mix with mainly freshness. The wood base appears throughout giving another
dimension of depth in this puerh. The
mouthfeel is somewhere between astringent and sticky.
The third infusion is surprisingly strong it has edges of
slight bitterness and astringency but is nuanced by layers of sweetness and
forest/woodiness. The aftertastes is
pungent and the throatfeeling is deep. There
is strength and power in this Yiwu. The
falvours are both vibrant and deep. The
taste of the skin of a prune plum is interesting.
The fourth infusion is a powerful astringent and sweet wood
affair. The mouthfeel becomes almost puckery
with an astringent plum and, in some ways, slightly candy-like with a sweet edge. Wood tastes are still there but the
astringency even hits the corners of the mouth.
It is not at all that choking astringency at all but a full, healthy,
bringing out the flovours type of ordeal.
I consider removing leaf but the intense mouthfeeling and throatfeeling
bode very well for this tea.
The fifth infusion has much more of a round taste in a
powerful full mouthfeeling. The fruity
taste stands out and is long and round throughout the profile. I love this mouthfeel- this will be an
amazing tea for aging. The sweetness
almost has 3 layers to it. The aftertaste
feels almost spicy and warming with a pungency mixed with astringency. The Qi is really starting to kick in an
pushes me into a mild sweat, my head and thoughs feel stalled. My mind is crisp but my thoughs are slow. Its effect is strong.
The sixth infusion starts into a very nice round malty sweet
or deep sweetness ininitally. The wood
tastes round out the profile. Highnotes
and fruit tastes glances the midprofile and sticks around. The taste has mellowed but is equally complex
with many deep and high nuances. The
moufeel now seems almost as sticky than astringent.
The seventh infusion taste of deeper, darker fruity tastes
initially like grape and plumb the wood/ forest taste is underneath and almost
seems to blend with the darker fruity tastes.
The profile of this puerh is very long and ends in a pungent cooling
taste. There are some grainy and even
nutty notes in the mix as well here. The
lips are tingling here as fruit tastes pop.
The eighth starts off with fruity grape like sweetness which
tapers off into a slighty grainy slightly woody taste. The aftertaste is long and pungent. This infusion starts to loose its boldness
but not much complexity.
The ninth infusion starts with that blast of fruit before
deeper forest tastes and astringency and mild bitterness appears. There is a deeper warmer spicier note
developing in there as well. The aftertaste
is almost bready, almost candy, and quite pungent. The throatfeel of this tea is quite deep-
very nice.
The tenth infusion has a deeper fruitier taste with nuances
of wood and forest. The fruit taste is
almost like a blackberry preserves type of taste mixed with grape and plum. Qi makes for a relaxing session with a noticeable
thought slowing Qi.
The eleventh infusion I add 15 seconds to the flash to push
it a bit. It gives off a malty fruit taste of nuanced dried and fresh
fruits. A grainy taste develops over a
returning pungent sweetness.
The tweveth infusion has 20 seconds added to the flash
infusion and has a fruity taste, slightly astringent, slightly bitter. Long fruitiness in some pungency. The mouthfeeling holds but the fruitiness is
less here.
The thirteenth has 25 seconds added and has an apple pie
like taste initially with bitter and astringency tucked in there. Woody tastes emerge and start to dominate
now. The aftertaste has a grape fruit
edge which is long lasting.
The fourteenth is at 35 seconds and gives off a very fruity
grapy taste the fruit taste is deep here but there is a certain vibrancy to it
still. This infusion is much more fruity
again. A rubbery taste is in the
aftertaste with a mild lingering fruit sweetness and menthol.
The fifteenth is steeped for maybe 50 seconds and is a touch
bitter and astringent and woody and not as fruity. There is a rubbery barely fruity lingering
aftertaste along with wood tastes there.
The sixteenth has a minute or so on there and gives us a
more woody taste mixed with lingering fruits and lingering menthol. The mind is nice and relaxed curled up by the
fire somewhere and yet there is a robust feeling in the chest, a subtle
fluttering feeling that give me a soft nudge of energy throughout this session.
The seventeeth is put into a long infusion and is a bitter, very astringent, fruity taste.
Interesting but truly overpowering.
Overall, this is one of my favorite new fresh tastings of
Yiwu puerh in recent times. Last year,
Essence of Tea released a 2017 Essence of Tea Spring YiWu GuoYuLin that I had the
pleasure of sampling. The description of
the tea on Essence of Tea’s website stated that this was their favorite tea
pressed to date- it sold out pretty quickly.
I think this one is considerably better in that it offers a much more
engaging astringency and mouth feeling as well as a deeper throatfeeling. Apparently, many GuoYuLin puerh in 2018 have shown much more astringency due to this year’s weather patterns. Some
see this as a negative but in my experience this can be a big positive. The astringency ensures that the tea will
have might even with age. Another thing
is the Qi, the qi is much more deep and penetrating and overt in this 2018 than
the 2017 as well.
“Ten Years to Sharpen a Sword” to me means that the last ten
years was just the beginning. The true treasure
from Essence of Tea has been presented to us in this extraordinary example of
puerh tea. If this is any indication of
things to come, I welcome it.
Congratulations David and Yingxi.
Lovely writing/review - thank you.
ReplyDeleteI may have to try this one...
M
M,
ReplyDeleteI really enjoyed this one on many different levels.
Much Peace
Thanks for your review Matt. Looking back, these 10 years have been quite a learning curve. I still feel there's so much more to refine & look forward to seeing where the coming years will take us to.
ReplyDeleteI'm glad you enjoyed the tea.
David
David,
ReplyDeleteIt is almost unimaginable how much puerh drinking has changed over just 10 years...
I still have a hard time wrapping my head around it!
Thanks too for pressing this beauty... I wonder how it would taste in 10 years...
Peace